There are numerous options for tasting whisky in Scotland. I chose touring and tasting at operating distilleries. Scotland is the biggest producer of whisky in the world, with over 100 active whisky distilleries. All whisky starts out as a mixture of yeast, barley or other grain and water. To be sold as Scotch Whisky, the distilled spirits must be aged for at least three years in oak barrels in one of five areas of Scotland: Highlands, Lowlands, Speyside, Campbeltown, or Islay. Differences in the water source or minerals used in the distilling process provide flavor varieties, but ultimately, there are only five types of Scotch Whisky: single malt, blended malt, single grain, blended grain, and blended. 

Even if you don’t drink alcoholic beverages, I recommend a distillery visit if you travel to Scotland. Whisky is Scotland’s national drink and part of its historic and cultural heritage. The earliest documented record of distilling in Scotland was in 1491. One of Scotland’s most famous poets, Robert Burns, wrote an ode to Scotch Whisky in 1785. Besides, the distilleries are often set in the most picturesque natural wonders of the country.  

Glenlivet Estate in Ballindalloch, Cairngorms National Park

Cairngorms National Park, voted one of the Top 20 places to visit in the world by National Geographic Travel Magazine, is home to several distilleries. The scenic estates offer bars, cafés, restaurants and . . . shopping! You can browse the gift shops for unique glassware, local artwork, silver cutlery. Plus, if you have a travel companion who wants to imbibe, you can be the designated driver. 

Let me share how I found my designated driver. In 2016, I joined a now defunct travel companion website called Thelma and Louise. I connected with a Scottish woman, JM, who was planning a trip to the U.S. that summer. Sadly, when JM arrived in New York we couldn’t coordinate our schedules, but we kept in touch via email. When I asked if she was up for a visit from me, she enthusiastically replied “Yes” and insisted on hosting me at her home in Glasgow. She also offered to be my chauffeur to anywhere I wanted to go in Scotland! And guess what else - she used to be an ambulance driver, so I knew I would be in good hands on those narrow, winding Scottish roads! 

Thistles - Scotland's National Flower

Armed with this information, I finalized my calendar for a two-week trip. I made advance reservations online for whisky tasting tours at three distilleries, one in Oban, located in the Highlands Region, and Glenlivet and Glenfiddich in Speyside. Of course, that wasn’t all I was going to do in Scotland!

After spending four days in the capital city of Edinburgh, I took Scotland Rail one hour west to Glasgow. Happily, JM and I hit it off in person. We both liked to sleep late and eat breakfast for lunch. I packed in three days of sightseeing in  Glasgow. We also explored the small town of Cambusnethan, finding a church and cemetery where my ancestors may have worshipped or been buried.

Then JM and I stashed our suitcases and snacks in her Honda Jazz and headed for Oban, a bustling fishing village on the west coast of Scotland. Driving northwest from Glasgow we ran into a smidgen of fog and drizzle, but to me it made the Scottish landscape even more ethereal.

We ducked into Three Lochs Way Information Center for a pitstop, then endured an annoying amount of one lane traffic due to road construction. Three hours later JM dropped me off at my bed and breakfast, No. 26 By the Sea, and went to her own hotel for a three-night respite.

Oban Distillery

The tour presented an up-close look into the whisky making process. We saw the mill room (grain is ground into grist), mash room (grain is combined with water), tun room (fermentation process) and still room. The yeast smells like bread fresh out of the oven and you can peek inside the vats. We learned that whisky is aged in either American white oak barrels or casks from Spain previously used to mature sherry.

We tasted four Oban whiskies. At the end of the tour, you keep your sample glass as a souvenir. If you want to buy more glasses or a bottle of whisky to go, stop at the gift shop on your way out. 

Oban Four Whiskies Tasted

I had one more day in Oban. Sal and I visited Dunollie Castle and McCaig’s Tower, both of which have awe inspiring views of the town, harbor, and outlying islands.

We ate fresh-off-the-boat seafood and engaged in lively conversations with her fiancé and friends. But finally, I promised Sal I’d come back for her wedding next year and continued on my trip.

Dunollie Castle

View from Dunollie Castle

JM drove us northeast from Oban on the A82 toward Grantown-on-Spey, a town in the whisky making region of Speyside. Speyside is situated between the Cairngorm mountains and the southern shore of the Moray Firth, an inlet of the North Sea.

Fluffy clouds drifted lazily across the royal blue sky. The mountains appeared in the distance. Purple thistles, Scotland’s national flower, popped up. Sheep, cows and horses grazed the verdant countryside. JM pulled the car off the road and I took photos.

Spean Bridge - Letterfinlay

We stopped in Fort Augustus to see the locks on the Caledonian Canal.

Fort Augustus

I spent two hours at Urquhart Castle overlooking Loch (Lake) Ness, which is highly recommended.

We arrived at our hotel in time for dinner. The next morning, we would go to Glenlivet, one of the distilleries on the self-guided tour called the “Malt Whisky Trail.”

Following the route of the Malt Whisky Trail gives you the opportunity to visit many renowned whisky makers. Speyside single malt whiskies are considered some of the finest in the world. A key component of whisky produced here is the pure water that comes from the river Spey and its mountain springs.

Glenlivet Distillery

The Malt Whisky Trail road signs were easy to read while driving. Glenlivet is in the town of Ballindalloch. We arrived early so we made a quick detour to see Blairfindy Castle, a 16^th century ruin which was once a prime example of L-Plan castle architecture.

We gathered in the barrel room (warehouse), kept at a regulated cool temperature.

Glenlivet Barrel Room

Our guide explained the legend of “angel’s share” (the part of the whisky that evaporates in the aging process).

Along the way, an artistic display of evolving Glenlivet bottle designs caught my eye.

After the tour we drove to Nairn, an ancient fishing port and seaside resort. Charlie Chaplin used to vacation there! I walked on the beach and the brash breeze tousled my hair. I paid a brief visit to the nearby Inverness Museum and Art Gallery and we ate dinner at The Mustard Seed before going back to the hotel. Glenfiddich tour tomorrow!

Glenfiddich Distillery

Glenfiddich Distillery lies on the banks of the Fiddich River north of Dufftown. As we meandered through the sunlit pastoral grounds, I had an urge to lay down a blanket, unpack a picnic basket and sit on the lush grass with my shoes off. The river babbled. Ducks quacked. JM found a well-placed bench to wait for me and turned her face skyward.

A life size sculpture of founder William Grant and his wife Elizabeth is available for photo ops outside the visitor center. The receptionist seemed frazzled, on the phone asking if she could add last-minute people to a tour. There wasn’t anywhere to sit in the lobby area except chairs inside the women’s bathroom.

The tour guide arrived and shared with us the Glenfiddich history of five generations of family ownership, from 1887 to today. We admired the gigantic tubs of aluminum, wood or bronze in the mash house and tun room.

Be sure to take a peek inside the high-end gift shop, where if your budget permits, you can create your own exclusive whisky!

Glenfiddich Gift Shop

We left Grantown-on-Spey the next day and followed the central route south through Pitlochry, Perth and Dundee to St. Andrews. I posed for selfies in front of St. Salvador’s Hall at the University of St. Andrews, where Prince William and Kate met.

The main shopping area of St. Andrews, Market Street, is car-free and I found some cute boutiques with unique clothing and jewelry.

I had accomplished everything on my Scotland trip agenda. I experienced Scotland’s cities, towns, coastline, museums, castles, art, idyllic scenery, amazing food and welcoming people. I reconnected with an old friend and made a new one. I toured spectacular distilleries and tasted my fair share of Scotch Malt Whisky. Two weeks was definitely not enough time to see all that Scotland offers as a tourist destination. But no matter how long or short your stay, please put a tour of a Scotch Whisky distillery on your must-do list!

Tips for Touring the Malt Whisky Trail